Everything I Love to Cook by Neil Perry
Neil Perry’s latest book Everything I Love to Cook celebrates his passion for supporting local sustainable food producers while drawing on his favourite recipes gathered throughout his career.
Words: Hande Renshaw | Photography: Petrina Tinslay
Eggplant parmigiana from Everything I Love to Cook. Photo: Petrina Tinslay
Spaghetti cacio e pepe from Everything I Love to Cook. Photo: Petrina Tinslay
Sixteen years since the release of Neil Perry’s groundbreaking bible for home cooks, The Food I Love, comes Everything I Love to Cook – a collection of recipes spanning the chef’s culinary career.
What started out as a compilation of Neil’s favourite (and best) recipes, took on a life of its own, and it has become much more.
‘Some of my favourite recipes are included, but then came other landmark dishes I knew I had to include, plus things that I've grown fond of cooking at home and in my restaurants over time. The target of around a hundred recipes was quickly exceeded and the book turned into a book of everything I love - and love to cook,’ says the chef.
The new book revisits legendary recipes from Neil’s flagship restaurants Rockpool Bar & Grill, Spice Temple and Jade Temple, along with modern classics from his long-running Good Weekend column.
The collection of recipes includes the perfect steak sandwich, a comforting bowl of pasta, a Southern Thai-style chicken curry and a classic tiramisu – all celebrating Neil’s passion for supporting local sustainable food producers.
Below we share one of Neil’s recipes from the book: Italian-style spinach torte.
A cracking cheese toastie from Everything I Love to Cook. Photo: Petrina Tinslay
Fennel mushroom moussaka from Everything I Love to Cook. Photo: Petrina Tinslay
“The target of around a hundred recipes was quickly exceeded and the book turned into a book of everything I love - and love to cook.”
Italian-style spinach torte (recipe below) from Everything I Love to Cook. Photo: Petrina Tinslay
Tagine of squid, tomato and red capsicum from Everything I Love to Cook. Photo: Petrina Tinslay
ITALIAN-STYLE SPINACH TORTE
This free-form pie is delicious and simple. For a great little side to go with it, cut up some cherry tomatoes and dress with good olive oil and red wine vinegar, then sprinkle with shichimi togarashi.
Serves 4
INGREDIENTS
¼ cup (60 ml) extra virgin olive oil
3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon mild chilli flakes
2 red onions, thinly sliced
600 g (1 lb 5 oz) silverbeet (Swiss chard) leaves, finely shredded
600 g (1 lb 5 oz) English spinach leaves, shredded
100 g (3½ oz) raisins, soaked in hot water for 20 minutes, then drained
2 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted in a dry frying pan until golden brown
2–3 tablespoons finely grated parmesan
Small handful of chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 large egg, lightly beaten
Lemon wedges, to serve
FOR THE PASTRY
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) plain (all-purpose) flour, plus extra for dusting
200 g (7 oz) cold unsalted butter, diced
1 teaspoon fine salt
2 eggs
½ cup (125 ml) whole milk
METHOD
First make the pastry. Put the flour, butter and salt into a food processor and pulse until you have fine crumbs. In a small bowl, beat the eggs and milk together, then add to the food processor and pulse until a dough starts to form. Tip out onto a clean bench and use your hands to press the dough into a cohesive mass, without kneading. Cut in half, then roughly shape each half into a disc, wrap in plastic wrap and chill in the fridge for half an hour.
Meanwhile, put the olive oil, garlic and chilli flakes into a large heavy-based saucepan. Place over medium heat and stir occasionally until the oil is infused with the garlic and chilli and the garlic has just turned golden, about 5 minutes.
Add the onions and gently sweat for 10 minutes until soft and translucent. Now add the silverbeet and spinach in batches, letting them cook until just wilted and stirring every so often to help things along. When all the greens are in the pan and wilted, stir in the raisins and pine nuts. Tip the contents of the pan into a sieve or colander in the sink and squeeze out as much liquid as possible, then transfer to a bowl. Stir in the parmesan and parsley until well combined. Set the filling aside to cool for 10 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F) and lightly oil a 30 cm (12 inch) round pizza tray (or a regular baking tray). On a flour-dusted bench, roll out each pastry disc into a 30 cm (12 inch) circle. Place the first pastry circle on the tray, then spoon the filling on top, spreading it over the pastry but leaving a 5 cm (2 inch) border clear all around the edge. Brush the border with beaten egg, then place the other pastry circle on top and twist the edges together all the way around to seal the torte. Use the tip of a knife to poke half a dozen small slits in the top to allow steam to escape, then brush with beaten egg.
Bake in the oven for 20–30 minutes or until golden. Remove and leave to rest for 10 minutes before serving.
Note: If you can find some warrigal greens or saltbush, try using them in this torte. We make something similar at Rockpool Bar & Grill, and it’s pretty nice with the tomato and chilli relish on page 52.
