Home Made by Broadsheet
If you’ve ever wondered what chefs cook at home, Home Made by Broadsheet shines a light on a collection of eighty diverse recipes by Melbourne’s best cooks, chefs and restaurants.
Photography: Mark Roper
Home Made pays homage to the people and places that have made Melbourne one of the finest food cities in the world. Photo: Mark Roper
Linguine with forage frais and fennel (recipe below) by Eileen Horsnell from Napier Quarter. Photo: Mark Roper
Home Made by Broadsheet epitomises the spirit of Melbourne now: a cross-section of the city’s culinary diversity and creativity, capturing the warmth, optimism and sense of community that remain palpable on the streets.
Many of the book’s recipes are quick and simple, such as Joseph Abboud’s (Rumi) smoky baba ganoush, Shane Delia’s (Maha) theatrical roast salmon and Andrew McConnell’s (Trader House Restaurants) weeknight prawn pasta. Others, such as Joey Kellock’s (1800 Lasagne) epic lasagne, Scott Pickett’s (Estelle) roast lamb shoulder and Hugh Allen’s (Vue de Monde) decadent lamington will take all day to prepare but are guaranteed to floor anyone who tastes them.
In between the main chapters (Snacks & Starters, Vegetables, Seafood, Poultry & Meat, Sides & Salads and Desserts) helpful features cover the fundamentals, such as how to organise a pantry properly, and which kitchen utensils are and aren’t worth dropping serious money on. Even which spirits and equipment you need to start a home bar.
Below we share a recipe from the book: Linguine with forage frais and fennel by Eileen Horsnell from Napier Quarter.
“This book is a celebration of the diversity, positivity and innovation that defines Melbourne food culture and which evolved into something more special in the last 18 months.”
LINGUINE WITH FROMAGE FRAIS AND FENNEL
EILEEN HORSNELL, NAPIER QUARTER
When I have people over I usually make pork or fresh pasta. Pasta’s really simple, rewarding and impressive. I make the dough in advance and leave it in a lump on the bench. When everyone arrives we roll out the pasta together, which is s nice way to involve guests in the meal, and you can be eating within 30 minutes.
This linguine came together around one star ingredient: Holy Goat fromage frais, a low-fat goat’s curd that’s similar to cottage cheese but without the lumps. It’s beautiful and light, with a citrusy tone, and the runny texture helps the cheese coat the pasta like a sauce. Goat’s milk is at its best in spring, so that’sthe best time to make this dish.
Serves 4
INGREDIENTS
1/2 bunch cavolo nero leaves stripped, finely sliced
2 tbsp fennel seeds lightly toasted
2 tsp chilli flakes lightly toasted
2 tbsp salted butter
1 fennel bulb finely sliced
4 cloves garlic finely sliced
4 golden shallots finely sliced
150ml white wine
400g fresh linguine
100g Grana Padano finely grated
100g pitted black olives chopped (or 10 anchovy fillets)
Zest and juice of 1 lemon
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
50ml extra-virgin olive oil
150g fromage frais
1/4 bunch parsley and chopped
METHOD
Blanch the cavolo nero in a large saucepan of salted boiling water for 2 minutes then drain, refresh under cold running water and set aside.
Refill the pan with water, set over high heat and bring to the boil, adding a good pinch of salt.
Meanwhile, finely grind the toasted fennel seeds using a mortar and pestle and combine with the chilli flakes.
Heat a large frying pan over medium heat, add the butter and melt for 3-4 minutes until foaming. Add the fennel and saute for 7–8 minutes, until transparent then add the garlic and shallot and sauce for 5-7 minutes, until lightly caramelised. Add the wine and cook until reduced by two thirds.
Next, place the pasta in the boiling water – this will only take around to cook, so from now we have to work quickly.
Add the Grana Padano to the fennel mixture so it gets a little melty, then grab
50ml of cooking water from the pasta pan. Quickly drain the pasta and add to the pan, along with the cavolo nero, then stir through the spices, olives and lemon zest and juice, and season with salt and pepper.
Divide the pasta among four plates and drizzle over the olive oil. Garnish with the fromage frais and parsley and serve.
Note: If using anchovies instead of olives, I recommend Olasagasti as they’re extremely meaty. If you can’t find these, any good-quality Spanish anchovy fillets will work.
