Ikaria by Meni Valle
Meni Valle’s latest cookbook Ikaria imparts the magic of Mediterranean food and reminds us how to find joy in the simplest things.
Words: Hande Renshaw | Photography: Lean Timms
Born to Greek parents, author Meni Valle has always been fascinated by her family’s traditions of cooking and eating. Photo - Lean Timms.
Portokalopita - Orange pie with filo and syrup from Ikaria: Food and life in the Blue Zone by Meni Valle. Photo - Lean Timms.
In the Aegean Sea lies the magical Greek island of Ikaria. Surrounded by crystal-blue Mediterranean waters that lap against its vertiginous coastline, its interior marked with rocky trails leading to quaint cobblestoned villages, each and every corner of the island is picture-perfect.
It was the beauty of the island’s landscape, its local produce, kitchens and people that author Meni Valle fell in love with and was inspired to capture for her fourth cookbook, Ikaria: Food and Life in the Blue Zone.
In Ikaria, Valle has collected traditional recipes from across the island that encapsulate the best of Mediterranean food. These are very simple dishes: vegetables, beans, wholegrains, small amounts of meat and fish, a couple of glasses of wine, and plenty of olive oil.
The essence of island life on Ikaria is to take life slowly and to truly relish time. Valle says that while she mainly comes to Ikaria to learn about food, “I also learn so much joy.”
So slow down, cook, eat, nap, spend time with family and friends. Stop and simply appreciate the joy of being alive.
Below we have two of Valle’s recipes from her new book: kokokithai (zucchini pie) and rizogalo (rice pudding).
“While I come to Ikaria mainly to learn about food, I will learn so much joy,” says Meni Valle. Photo - Lean Timms.
Grilled sardines with oil and lemon dressing from Ikaria: Food and life in the Blue Zone by Meni Valle. Photo - Lean Timms.
“Ikaria is an affirmation of the beautiful, simple things that matter most.”
“The moment I step off the aeroplane on my first visit to Ikaria I feel the magic of the Greek summer and promise of long relaxing days to come,” says Meni Valle. Photo - Lean Timms.
Kolokithai Pita - Zucchini pie from Ikaria: Food and life in the Blue Zone by Meni Valle. Photo - Lean Timms.
KOLOKITHAI - ZUCCHINI PIE
This open rustic pie is similar to a galette: the more rustic it looks the better. You can use any of the fillings in this section for this pie.
INGREDIENTS
4 large zucchinins
1/2 batch Filo dough (recipe below)
1 small handful of combined parsley, mint and dill, finely chopped
250 g (9 oz/11/3 cup) crumbled feta
4 eggs
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
olive oil, for brushing
METHOD
Cut off the ends of the zucchini – there is no need to peel them – and grate into a large colander. Let sit.
Prepare the filo dough (below).
Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F).
Squeeze out any liquid that remains in the zucchini and place.
In a bowl. Add the herbs, crumbled feta and eggs, mixing well with a wooden spoon. Season with salt and black pepper and add the nutmeg.
Roll out the filo dough into a large circle and place as three oiled layers (as in the Hortopita recipe) on an oiled 32 cm (123/4 in) round baking tray. Spoon the filling into the middle of the dough, leaving a large border. Fold the edges of the dough over part of the filling, crimpling as you go around. Brush the edges with a little olive oil and bake for about 30 minutes or until the dough is golden and the filling is firm.
Serve at room temperature.
INGREDIENTS
500 g (1 lb 2 oz/31/3 cups) plain (all-purpose) flour
1 teaspoon salt
60 ml (2 fl oz/1/4 cup) olive oil
1 tablespoon white-wine vinegar
250 ml (81/2 fl oz/1 cup) lukewarm water
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
cornflour (cornstarch) for dusting
METHOD
To make the filo dough, place the flour in a bowl with the salt. Make a well in the centre and pour in the olive oil and vinegar.
(The vinegar here helps with the flakiness of the pastry.) Start mixing, either with a spoon or your hands, adding lukewarm water until it resembles a soft dough. You will need about
250 ml (8 1/2 fl oz/1 cup) water, more or less. Tip the dough onto a floured surface and knead lightly until it is smooth, then place back in the bowl and cover with a tea towel. Allow it to rest for an hour while you make the filling.
Rizogalo - Rice pudding from Ikaria by Meni Valle. Photo - Lean Timms.
Tarta Marmelada - Jam Tart from Ikaria by Meni Valle. Photo - Lean Timms.
RIZOGALO - RICE PUDDING
Rizogalo transports me to my childhood. This version is one I had not seen before, but it is as delicious as it could be. In my mind the sprinkling of cinnamon on top is a must.
INGREDIENTS
55g (2 oz/3/4 cup) short-grain rice
1 litre (34 fl oz/4 cups organic goat’s milk
3 strips lemon peel
80g (23/4 oz/1/3 cup) caster sugar
ground cinnamon, to serve
METHOD
Bring 375 ml (121/2 fl oz/11/2 cups) water to the boil in a saucepan over a high heat. Add the rice, reduce the heat to low and cook until all the water has absorbed.
Pour in the milk and lemon peel and continue cooking on a low heat, stirring from time to time so the rice does not stick to the bottom of the pot. Add the sugar when the rice is cooked and stir to combine. Cook for a further 2 minutes. Remove a few tablespoons of the rice with a slotted spoon and crush to a pulp with a fork then return to the pan – the starch from the rice will act as a thickener.
Remove from the heat, pour into individual bowls and allow to cool at room temperature before serving. Sprinkle some cinnamon on top and enjoy.
This keeps well in the refrigerator for the next day, and it’s delicious chilled as well.
Ikaria: Food and life in the Blue Zone by Meni Valle, published by Hardie Grant Books RRP $45.00 is available where all good books are sold and also online.