Vanessa Barragão
Based in Portugal’s coastal Albufeira, textile artist Vanessa Barragão is inspired by the crisis of the natural world around her.
Words: Emma-Kate Wilson
‘The timings, the pressure to create new collections, and of course, its negative impact on the planet. I don’t identify with the way the fashion industry works,’ says Vanessa Barragão. Photo: Courtesy of Studio Vanessa Barragão
‘Every piece has its timing; I like to go to the studio and develop each piece depending on my mood that day.’ Photo: Courtesy of Studio Vanessa Barragão
Vanessa Barragão uses textile art installations to impassion her audiences to care about the volatile state of the environment. To do so, she crafts organic structures akin to coral reefs made from colourful crochet.
The ocean had always been a source of inspiration for Vanessa, first combining art and environment at university. ‘After knowing what was happening to the coral reefs—their bleaching and destruction—I decided to focus on this issue by raising awareness to it,’ she explains. ‘[I] try to appeal people to be more conscious about what’s happening underwater and what they can change in their daily routines and actions to improve the health of our planet.’
Since she was young, Vanessa has held an interest in crochet after spending afternoons learning techniques from her grandmothers. ‘A few years later, during university, I created my own clothes using artisanal techniques, and it was during that period that I learned the most techniques that I apply to my works today.’
Throughout her practice, Vanessa is conscious of sustainability in her medium and process. The artist seeks out recycled materials, offcuts from the textile industry, something particularly relevant after her time in the fashion industry working at textile factories in Porto. ‘I realised the huge amount of waste and discards they generated! Most of it was good enough to apply into my works, and that’s how it basically started.’
‘When I fill every square of the canvas, I start cutting and carving the piece, so it gains flow and movement. Once it looks alive, I know it’s finished.’
“I’m careful with the sustainability of my process and the materials that I use. I am always looking for ways to collect more wastes from the textile industry and thinking about how I can apply new recycled materials to my works.”
‘In the beginning, I used discarded wools from local farms. Small farms don’t produce enough wool (or the best quality) to actually be able to sell it, and they usually end up burning it.’ Photo: Courtesy of Studio Vanessa Barragão
Vanessa’s studio space in her hometown of Albufeira in Portugal. Photo: Courtesy of Studio Vanessa Barragão
Vanessa’s wonderful studio space in her hometown of Albufeira in Portugal. Photo: Courtesy of Studio Vanessa Barragão
Recently, the artist moved back to her hometown Albufeira after living in Porto and getting more and more frustrated with the fashion industry with textile waste and push for fast fashion. But she also adds, ‘eventually, I had to leave my job at the factory to focus entirely on my projects — there were a lot of projects to develop and creations to make due to a growing number of commissions. That was when I decided to move back to my hometown, closer to my family. They are a big part of my studio as they help me a lot!
From her studio by the coast, Vanessa rarely starts her creations with a plan; instead, she prefers the freedom of working intuitively. After selecting her colour palette, the textile artist begins by cutting the canvas and proceeding to fill every little square; each piece has its own timing. This process allows her to follow the natural flow of the artworks. She shares, ‘once it looks alive, I know it’s finished.’
Vanessa’s favourite artwork and proudest moment so far in her art career is the Botanical Tapestry at London’s Heathrow Airport. ‘It was the biggest and the longest one to make—more than six months!’ she laughs. ‘It was a great experience overall.’ Using eight kilograms of jute and cotton and forty-two kilograms of recycled wool, the work takes shape as a world map highlighting the threatened species around the world in Vanessa’s distinctive crocheting ‘coral’ style.
‘Displaying a piece at the Heathrow Airport made me feel really proud!’ Vanessa continues. ‘It’s a big space, and a lot of people go through it every day. It was a big moment. But I do feel proud whenever I get an email from someone interested in my work.’
With some of her incredible collaborations, including architectural tapestries, tactile rugs, and immersive installations, we await her next projects. And Vanessa excitingly reveals, ‘my work is going outdoors very soon!’
‘Every piece has its timing; I like to go to the studio and develop each piece depending on my mood that day. I do choose the colours before I start working on a piece.’ Photo: Courtesy of Studio Vanessa Barragão
A colourful corner of materials in Vanessa’s studio space in her hometown of Albufeira in Portugal. Photo: Courtesy of Studio Vanessa Barragão