All Day Baking by Michael & Pippa James
Michael and Pippa James’ cookbook All Day Baking: Savoury Not Sweet gives us practical and seasonal baking recipes for everyday living.
Words: Hande Renshaw | Photography: Lisa Cohen
Indian vegetable curry pie from All Day Baking. Photo: Lisa Cohen.
‘Respecting and appreciating seasonal changes challenges us to be more creative with our cooking and provides opportunity for a more mindful way of baking,’ says Michael James. Photo: Lisa Cohen.
When Michael and Pippa James owned their bakery Tivoli Road in South Yarra, many of the savoury bakes they created had an almost cult-like following.
There were queues outside the store, with people patiently waiting in line not just for the incredible bread, doughnuts and croissants, but also for the savoury offerings: breakfast rolls, pies and sausage rolls.
Fast forward to today and the duo have recently released their second cookbook, All Day Baking: Savour Not Sweet, so that we can replicate their magical baking.
Structured across the arc of the day, the book is divided into recipes for early in the morning through to late at night. The focus is on Michael and Pippa’s commitment to sustainable and seasonal cooking, diving into pies, galettes, tarts, preserves and more.
Across the book’s chapters, the pair give us recipes such as Olive, Rosemary and Seal Salt Focaccia, Steak and Stilton Pasties and fermented lime pickles.
The essence of All Day Baking is to celebrate the joy of eating seasonally, while embracing traditional baking techniques.
Below we share a recipe from the new book: onion and gruyére gougéres.
‘I find the best equipment for making pastry is my hands, a good rolling pin and my kitchen benchtop – a lot of pastry can be made with just these things,’ says Michael James. Photo: Lisa Cohen.
Ham and cheese palmiers from All Day Baking. Photo: Lisa Cohen.
“Before you make a recipe, take the time to sit down and read it through... just a few minutes of reading and checking can save you time and frustration.”
Onion and gryuére gougéres from All Day Baking (recipe below). Photo: Lisa Cohen.
Michael and Pippa James. Photo: Lisa Cohen.
ONION AND GRUYÈRE GOUGÈRES
Gougères are moreish bites of cheesy choux pastry. Originally from Burgundy, they are traditionally served with an aperitif but are good at any time.
This is a hugely satisfying bake. I love playing with different flavour combinations: cheese and wholegrain mustard, mushroom and onion or chilli and herbs are all great. The choux bakes up into feathery light balls and even if they don’t all end up looking perfect, they’ll still be delicious. Just make sure you guard them until needed – they tend to disappear pretty quickly.
Serves 18
CHOUX PASTRY
INGREDIENTS
150 g (5½ oz) water
70 g (2½ oz) unsalted butter, chopped
3 g (¹∕₁₀ oz/½ teaspoon) fine salt
80 g (2¾ oz) bakers (strong) flour, sifted
100 g (3½ oz/2 medium) eggs, lightly beaten
50 g (1¾ oz) Caramelised onions
40 g (1½ oz) gruyère, finely grated, plus extra for sprinkling
1 teaspoon chopped thyme
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Egg wash
METHOD
To make the Choux pastry, combine the water, butter and salt in a heavy-based medium saucepan over a medium heat. Melt the butter, stirring occasionally to incorporate all the ingredients.
Bring the mixture to the boil, then, just as it boils, add the flour all at once. Mix well with a wooden spoon as you cook out the starch in the flour and form your dough. Reduce the heat to low and continue to cook the dough, stirring constantly, for about 2 minutes, or until it comes away from the side of the pan. The starch in the flour hydrates and binds with the liquid, which stabilises the mixture. It is important that you don’t overcook the dough at this stage, otherwise the proteins in the flour denature and the flour will not hold the liquid or eggs.
Transfer the dough to a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Beat on medium speed for 1 minute, then add the eggs, a little at a time, ensuring that each addition is well incorporated before adding the next. This should take about 2 minutes and result in a smooth, shiny dough. (This step can also be done by hand, adding the eggs into the saucepan, a little at a time, and beating well with a wooden spoon.) The choux pastry is ready to use straight away. It will keep, covered, in the fridge for 2–3 days.
Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F). Line two baking trays with baking paper.
Put the choux pastry in a bowl and add the caramelised onion, cheese, thyme and pepper. Mix with a wooden spoon until just combined. Transfer the choux to a piping bag fitted with a 12 mm (½ in) nozzle. Pipe 18 mounds on the lined trays, about 3 cm (1¼ in) high and 3.5 cm (1½ in) in diameter at the base, spacing them 5 cm (2 in) apart. If you don’t have a piping bag, use two spoons to portion the choux. With damp fingers, shape each piece into a smooth sphere. Lightly brush the surface with egg wash and sprinkle with a little extra cheese.
Bake for 10 minutes, then reduce the oven to 180°C (360°F) and bake for a further 10 minutes. Turn and swap the trays, then bake for another 5 minutes, or until the gougères are deep golden and look like light, airy puffballs. To help dry them out more and develop a lovely crust, turn off the oven and leave them in the oven with the door ajar for 10 minutes, or until cooled.
They are amazing straight from the oven but also eat well cold. Store for a few days in an airtight container at room temperature, then reheat in the oven for 5 minutes at 180°C (360°F).
CARAMALISED ONIONS
I always have caramelised onions on hand. They are so tasty and can really boost the flavour of just about anything. I add them to pizza, pasta, quiche, galettes and sandwiches.
Use a heavy-based frying pan to slowly cook the onions over a low heat, scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to prevent them sticking. Caramelise the onions to a light golden colour, just enough to draw out all the sugars and flavour. I aim for a light colour here so they won’t burn when used in baking later on.
Fills 2 × 250 ml (8½ fl oz) jars
INGREDIENTS
50 g (1¾ oz) unsalted butter
40 g (1½ oz/2 tablespoons) olive oil
1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) onions, thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 fresh bay leaf
5 g flaky sea salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon chopped thyme
METHOD
Melt the butter and olive oil in a large heavy-based frying pan over a medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, bay leaf, salt and pepper and cook with the lid on, stirring occasionally, for 10–12 minutes to soften the onion and release the juices. The salt will help to draw the juices out.
Take the lid off and reduce the heat to medium–low. Cook, stirring occasionally, for a further 45 minutes to slowly caramelise the onions. The mixture will dry out and appear thick and glossy once ready. Stir in the thyme and taste for seasoning.
Store the caramelised onion for 1 week in the fridge. For longer storage, pour into sterilised jars and seal. Store the unopened jars in the pantry for up to 6 months.
This is an edited extract from All Day Baking: Savoury Not Sweet by Michael & Pippa James, published by Hardie Grant Books, RRP $45.00. Available where all good books are sold and online.