The Eternal City by Maria Pasquale
In her new cookbook, The Eternal City, Maria Pasquale shares her love affair with Rome and the recipes she’s collected from her favourite trattorias to home kitchens.
Words: Hande Renshaw I Photography: Mark Roper
Le Frappe (sweet pastry strips) from The Eternal City. Photo: Mark Roper
‘You get this at most restaurants in Rome or across Italy – an appreciation and respect for produce and the desire to share. It’s what I love most about Italy’s rich and dynamic culinary culture,’ says Maria Pasquale. Photo: Andrea Federici
Born to Italian parents, in Melbourne, Maria Pasquale always knew Rome was her destiny.
‘I compare Rome to a real life love affair, where you have good moments and bad and times when you come close to calling it quits. But it’s the most beautiful and spirited city in the world, where everything changes but nothing changes. It’s full of layers, contrasts and contradictions which makes it thrilling, exciting, frustrating and soul enriching – usually at the same time!’ says Maria.
Based in Rome since 2011, Maria is an award-winning food and travel writer and journalist. Her new book, The Eternal City, takes us through winding cobblestone streets to visit the places where Romans eat every day, from the trattoria to the home kitchen. With 70 recipes shared by iconic eateries, chefs, and Maria's family and friends, the book is a love letter to Rome.
‘I recall one of my first fine dining experiences in Rome more than 15 years ago. It was on the rooftop of the Hotel Bernini Bristol in Piazza Barberini. The restaurant is no longer there, but I remember the attention to detail the wait staff had in describing not only each dish, but particular aspects of the prized ingredients. You get this at most restaurants in Rome or across Italy – an appreciation and respect for produce and the desire to share. It’s what I love most about Italy’s rich and dynamic culinary culture,’ says Maria.
Across its chapters, Maria has collected recipes from her time in Rome: Pesce in Guazzetto (fish stew), Broccolo Romanesco (Roman Broccoli), Pizzette, Mini Panettone and Tiramisù, to name a few.
Below we share one of Maria’s recipes from the book: Crostata di Marmellata (jam tart).
Mousse di Mascarpone con Fragoline di Bosco (mascarpone mousse with wild strawberries) from The Eternal City. ‘It’s my favourite dessert in Rome from my local trattoria, Da Enzo al 29 and they were so generous to share it with me. It’s super easy to prepare and will impress anyone at your next dinner party!’ says Maria Pasquale. Photo: Mark Roper
“Rome is the most beautiful and spirited city in the world, where everything changes but nothing changes. It’s full of layers, contrasts and contradictions, which makes it thrilling, exciting, frustrating and soul enriching – usually at the same time! ”
‘I couldn’t live without extra virgin olive oil. It’s the base of Italian and Mediterranean cuisine and not only does it add nutritional value, the taste – especially of a really good quality one – is so recognisable and for me, irresistible. I can’t live or cook without it.’ Photo: Andrea Federici
Maritozzo con Panna (sweet cream buns) from The Eternal City. Photo: Mark Roper
Crostata di Marmellata (jam tart) from The Eternal City, recipe shared below. Photo: Mark Roper
Suppli (fried rice balls) from The Eternal City. Photo: Mark Roper
CROSTATA DI MARMELLATA: Jam Tart
A crostata is an Italian-style jam tart that Italians enjoy at any time of day, starting from breakfast. When I tasted this one by my friend Toni, I knew I had to share it. In Rome, you can buy a slice or an entire crostata at the bakery, and it is commonly on the trattoria dessert list. It’s a great dessert option if you’re looking to create something sweet and substantial, as opposed to your rich and creamy desserts. Toni says it is one of those really easy sweets that takes no time (or much skill) to make, and is always lovely to have on hand in the kitchen, best enjoyed with a tea, coffee or with some good-quality vanilla gelato.
Serves 8
INGREDIENTS
250 g (12⁄3 cups) ‘00’ flour
100 g (31⁄2 oz) caster (superfine) sugar
110 g (4 oz) butter
2–3 tablespoons chilled water
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) jam
METHOD
In a food processor mix together the flour, sugar, butter and a pinch of salt until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs.
While the food processor is still running, add the chilled water and continue to mix until the mixture begins to form large clumps, stopping the machine before the mixture forms a ball.
Turn the pastry out onto a lightly floured surface and knead gently to bring together. Divide the pastry into two parts, one larger than the other.
Form the larger part into a disc and cover in plastic wrap then roll out the smaller part between two pieces of baking paper, refrigerating both parts, preferably overnight, or for at least 2 hours.
Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F).
Remove the larger disc of pastry from the fridge and roll it out to fit the base of a 22 cm (83/4 in) round tart tin. Use it to line the base of the tin, cutting off any excess. Fill the tart with your jam of choice, then use the smaller piece of rolled-out pastry to cut out strips to criss-cross over the top of the jam.
Bake for 45 minutes, or until the pastry is golden. Allow to cool before cutting into slices with a sharp knife.
